The Heat is on in Saigon

I first encountered Saigon when I was in eighth grade. I went to see the musical Miss Saigon and fell in love with the story. As we made our way down the coast of Vietnam towards Saigon, I couldn’t help but burst out into songs from the musical. (The title of this post is based on one of the songs from the musical… my feet are tapping as I write this post!) Though I loved the idea of Saigon, I wasn’t really that interested in the city itself. Word on the backpacker street was that Saigon was like any other major city – okay, but nothing really special. I went into the city with low (or no) expectations.

We ended up spending more time in Saigon (now officially called Ho Chi Min City or HCMC) than we had anticipated, but that was mostly because I ended up getting sick!

Ho Chi Min’s bust and a Vietnam flag found
in the Reunification Palace.

Once the sickness had subsided, we decided to head out and explore the two main tourist sites in HCMC. We started off at the Reunification Palace. This palace was built in 1966 and served as the presidential palace. The building is probably most famous for the role that it played in the Vietnam War. On April 30, 1975 a North Vietnamese tank drove through the gates of the palace and the war was declared over.

In the basement of the palace are the war
rooms. They reminded me a lot of Winston
Churchill’s war rooms in London.

“Don’t touch the object!” Oops…
I just couldn’t help myself…

The tanks moving into the yard of the
Reunification Palace on April 30, 1975.

In addition to the Reunification Palace we also visited the War Remnants Museum. This museum aims to collect and display artifacts from the Vietnam War. It was certainly an interesting museum with a very pro-Vietnam stance. While there was lots of propaganda to surf through (not more than what you might find in an American equivalent though), the museum also provided lots of moments for contemplation about what had happened to Vietnam during the war. The Agent Orange that was used destroyed many lives and continues to affect the population today. The information that was displayed about the use of this pesticide during the war was heart-breaking.

In addition to spending time at the more touristy places (we checked out a local market and just wandered around the city), we discovered a lovely little café in downtown Saigon. Sozo serves delicious baked goods, something that can be hard to come by in Asia. We were delighted to stumble upon this little oasis in the big city. Sozo was set up with the aim of providing people with low (or no) income with the skills necessary for them to find work. Sozo’s vision statement is “Restoring hope, Changing lives”.

During our second visit to Sozo we ended up participating in an English exchange program. Every Tuesday night (I believe….) foreigners and Vietnamese people come together to build community, with the aim of providing a place for Vietnamese people to come and practice their English with native speakers. We ended up chatting with a bunch of locals for the evening. I think that this was definitely one of the highlights of our time in Saigon. It was nice to just spend time talking to people, and to learn more about Vietnam.

Our new friends. What a great night!

Though we never had the opportunity to completely devote ourselves to volunteering during our travels, it was nice to be a part of such a neat vision. I’d certainly recommend others to stop by the café if you’re in the area.

How to Build Community

Turn off your TV.

Leave your house.

Know your neighbors.

Look up when you are walking.

Greet people.

Sit on your stoop.

Plant flowers.

Use your library.

Play together.

Buy from local merchants.

Share what you have.

Help a lost dog.

Take children to the park.

Garden together.

Support neighborhood schools.

Fix it even if you didn’t break it.

Have pot lucks.

Honor elders.

Pick up litter.

Read stories aloud.

Dance in the street.

Talk to the mail carrier.

Listen to the birds.

Put up a swing.

Help carry something heavy.

Barter for your goods.

Start a tradition.

Ask a question.

Hire young people for odd jobs.

Organize a block party.

Bake extra and share.

Ask for help when you need it.

Open your shades.

Sing together.

Share your skills.

Take back the night.

Turn up the music.

Turn down the music.

Listen before you react to anger.

Mediate a conflict.

Seek to understand.

Learn from new and uncomfortable angles.

Know that no one is silent although many are not heard.

 

I didn’t write this, but I do believe that it speaks the truth… Do you do this in your community?

Walking for a Cause

Back in 2004 I moved to Uganda to work with Rwandan refugees. I implemented sport and play programs in the refugee settlement with the hope of helping to build community and to help with the development of the children. It was an amazing experience that I’m sure will stick with me forever. I still remember my people, the Rwandans (and Ugandans) who touched my life and my soul. When I returned home I worked with an organization called GuluWalk. GuluWalk aims to raise awareness and funds for the people of Northern Uganda. There has been a civil war happening in Norther Uganda since the late 1980s. Thousands of people have been displaced, thousands of children have been kidnapped and forced to become soldiers. The situation is not great. While I didn’t work in Northern Uganda, I have a heart for the people there. For three years I worked with GuluWalk, raising money and organizing a walk in my hometown. This year there is no walk in my city, but I’m hoping to join one of the other walks in a nearby city. I’m hoping that you might consider walking for the children of Northern Uganda.

I’ll leave you with the top 10 reasons for joining the GuluWalk this year (as posted on the GuluWalk website).

#10: Ashton Kutcher, Ellen Degeneres and Britney Spears all have more than 3 million followers on Twitter. That is slightly frightening. But also a good lesson in trends – can we change them? Let’s prove that we actually DO care about less superficial things.

#9: We are all global citizens.

#8: While serving as the United Nation’s under-secretary-general for humanitarian affairs, Jan Egeland called the LRA conflict in northern Uganda ‘the world’s most neglected humanitarian crisis.’  If you don’t know the history, learn it.*

#7: Scars from 23 years of war do not heal overnight.

#6: When GuluWalk began in 2005, thousands of children were walking each night to seek a safe place to sleep; a place where the risk of abduction by the LRA would be low. They were known as ‘night commuters.’ Night commuting has stopped. There is a tentative peace in northern Uganda. But these children are still growing up, having known only war for the majority of their lives. They need support, they need a voice, they need leadership.

#5: There are close to half a million people still living in IDP and transit camps in northern Uganda.

#4: The LRA continues to wreak havoc in the region, mostly in the Congo, Sudan and now Central African Republic. It’s history in northern Uganda is a big piece to this puzzle and its impact there must not be forgotten.

#3: You still have an extremely high chance of earning an all-expenses paid trip to northern Uganda. Become a ‘founding builder’ (one of the first 500 people to raise $500 online) and you could receive that trip, see first-hand the need for programming and gain a deeper understanding of the conflict.

#2: This year, by walking, you will be raising awareness and funds for the Gulu Youth Cultural Centre: a home for much-needed youth leadership training; arts and cultural programming; rehabilitation and rebuilding.

#1:Take real action. Because as easy as it is to click a button or join a Fan Page or change our Twitter profile picture, I think we are still capable of being roused; of feeling inspired; of using our free time, our voice, our combined effort, to act. Your voice will be heard.

Home

As we have begun to adjust to life back home things have been busy. I’ve started working – teaching at a school in the region for eight weeks. Jeff’s been working on various projects, from staining homes and decks to bookkeeping to tutoring. We’re slowly figuring out how we fit back into life in Canada.

It’s nice to be back home. I feel a sense of pride when my national anthem plays on the announcements every morning. It’s funny, for the past two years I’ve stood for the national anthems of two other countries and never really thought about how I felt about that. Being back home I get goosebumps listening to the Canadian anthem.

We’re still sorting through our pictures and will post more about our trip soon.

Homeward Bound

Well, it’s been an absolutely fantastic eight weeks through Indonesia, KL, Vietnam, Cambodia, and a little of Thailand.  We didn’t have the time to make it to Laos, but that just means that we’ll have to return someday.  We’ll continue to blog about the rest of our journey once we return home, but for us, it’s the end of the line.  Our flight leaves in less than 12 hours, so it’s time to get a little rest before an early morning departure to the airport.

Thanks to all who have joined us for the ride.

Hoi An, Vietnam – A Quaint Town That Employs Half of the World’s Tailors

Hoi An is famous amongst backpackers for its tailors. Word on the street is that Hoi An is the place to get cheap, new, tailor made clothing – that word is right. While in Hoi An we found a tailor (though they aren’t hard to find, the tailor shops line the streets, it’s hard to go anywhere in this city without bumping into someone who wants to make you some kind of clothing!) to make us a few new pieces for our wardrobes.

Be careful walking through the market… you might get run
over by a motorbike!

Jeff getting measured for his new suit.

In addition to its tailors, and probably more important on a cultural level, are the historical architectural sites of Hoi An Old Town that are littered around the city. We spent a couple of days roaming around the city, taking in the sights (and the sites).

The courtyard of the Chinese Assembly Hall.

While the sites were interesting, we came across a few that left a lot to be desired. Despite this, it was nice to walk around the city and learn a bit more about it’s history.

Incense hung from the ceiling in the ancient temples.

While in the area, we also made an early morning trip (5am) to My Son (pronounced Me Son), an old Cham ruin. These ruins were simply the beginning of what we were to see later in Angkor, but they were still amazing, especially so early in the morning before the rush of tourists arrived.

They aren’t sure how the buildings were created. The bricks are
melded together with no mortar in between. Experts believe the
Cham people may have used a glue derived from sap that is found
in a tree common in the area.

The Cham people originally came from Indonesia to Vietnam. They were pushed down the coast and left their mark in ancient buildings scattered throughout Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand. My Son is 2,000 years old and was built by various kings throughout the years. It was a temple for the king and his family, a place to worship the Hindu god Shiva. During the Vietnam war the US bombed this site, but it is still fairly intact. They say that these are not the best examples of Cham ruins, the buildings are not in great shape, but because of its placement in the jungle, they are the most interesting.

Taking in the beauty of the surroundings.
It was so peaceful and quiet.

We met a French family who were disappointed by My Son. I’m not sure what they were expecting, but we’ve learnt to go into things with either low or no expectations. It means that things are usually more enjoyable and we aren’t disappointed very often!

You can see the French influence in these buildings on the river.

The streets were small and full of souvenir shops,
places to stop for a quick bite to eat, and tailors.

Aside from the shopping and the history, Hoi An is simply a quaint town that is a nice place to relax from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi and Ho Chi Min City.

Motorbikes at dusk.

Two Years Down and How Many to Go?

Well, it’s the day that Jen never remembers:  “When did we get married?  I don’t remember!!”

I love her anyways, and I’m lucky enough to have her love me too.  Today marks our two year anniversary!!  Incidentally, we’ve always been away for our anniversary – I wonder where we’ll be next year – we got married in Costa Rica, spent last year in Jeju, Korea, and now we’re in Bangkok, Thailand.

Jen and I have really enjoyed our time in South East Asia, but one thing that we keep forgetting to do is to ask others to take some photos of the two of us.  The most recent photo we have is at Angkor Wat, taken about a week ago.  (We’re a bit behind in our blogging!).

Jen and myself on the path leading to Angkor Wat.

If you want a refresher of a few of our wedding photos, check out last year’s anniversary post.

Happy anniversary, Jen!

Sapa, Vietnam – Photography Exhibition!

Sapa was great, not just because the people were so friendly, but also because the views were spectacular.  Even as we sat atop the mountains, in the clouds, we still found beauty.  As it is the rainy season, we went to Sapa with the expectation that it would be cloudy for the duration of our visit.  We had read that some people still found it a worthwhile visit when they had nothing but rain for their whole stay.

With the clouds around us, we could only see a little beyond
our hotel.  And yet, it was still a sight to appreciate.

One of the rice paddies in Cat Cat village.  Jen’s favourite
quote from this part of trip was from a lady who was
passing by at the time I was taking this photo:  “Why
are you taking a photo?”  Jen:  “Because it’s beautiful!”

Looking down into some of the terraced rice paddies and
part of Cat Cat village.  The rain was light at this point,
but you can still see the clouds about at the far edges of
this photo.

Fortunately for us, our second day was full of sunshine.  There were a couple of hours in the late morning where the rain felt like it was returning, but as we descended into the valley, we moved out of the clouds and blue skies were revealed for the duration of our trek.

Jen captured a great photo while we stopped for a lunch
break with this Hmong woman walking along one of the
terraces.

A small stream cuts through this set of terraced rice paddies.

Jen’s Korean pose strikes again!  Approaching the edge
of the path and watching this panoramic view open up
was magnificent.  This was one of my favourite views.  I
just stood there, gaping at the scene that lay before me,
while out guide kept telling me that we were continuing on.

A flutist playing on a terrace.  It was so peaceful just
listening to him as he meandered around.

And this one is for our good friend Jeff Smith.  Every time I come across a bridge, I always think of you, Jeff!

A tiny foot bridge to help us cross a small stream.

Now, it’s time for some audience participation.  Here’s our first Dawseng poll.  Which photo do you like the most?  You can give reasons if you like, or just pick your favourite.  Really, I loved both photos so much, I couldn’t decide which one to post.  Despite being photos of virtually the same scene, I love each of them for different reasons and was looking for an excuse to share them both.  If you’d like a larger view of the photos, just click on the photos.  So please leave your vote in a comment!!

Terraced rice paddies with our guide and two
of her friends.

Rice everywhere!!!

Hope you enjoy viewing the photos as much as I enjoyed taking them.

ps.  Constructive criticism, pointers, any other comments to help me improve my photography are greatly appreciated as well!  Thanks.

Sapa, Vietnam

ETA: I added one more picture at the bottom of this post

Sapa is probably one of my favourite places that we’ve visited thus far. It’s a nine hour overnight train ride that leaves you in Lao Cai at 5:30am, then it’s an hour’s drive along windy roads to the town of Sapa. Boy oh boy, was it worth it!

We did Sapa on our own. Hanoi is full of travel agencies that are willing to take tourists up to Sapa, but it was much cheaper (and quite easy) to get up there on our own.

The first morning, when we arrived, it was very cloudy.
This is the view from our hotel room.

Before we left for Sapa we had been told to be aware that the place was very touristy, most people we spoke to did not like the city, though we were told that the views were amazing. Upon arriving in Sapa we were surrounded by Hmong women all wanting us to “Buy from me!” We instead made our way to the Auberge Hotel and found ourselves a room. It was a bit beyond our budget, but we were tired from our uneasy night’s sleep on the train and had walked up five long flights of stairs with our big pack.

Now, I check out the rooms while Jeff stays down at the reception with our bags.

Waking up on our second morning in Sapa, we were
graced with much better weather, turning our view
from dreary to spectacular.

Sapa is one of the two main highlights that people visit when they are in northern Vietnam. It’s close to the Chinese border and is home to numerous ethnic minority people who were gradually pushed off the flat land further south, and into the mountains. These people ended up building terraces in the mountains to grow rice.

The Hmong women would wait very patiently outside the
hotels in hordes, just waiting to pounce on the tourists as
soon as they left they left the safety of their hotel!

We spent our first day in Sapa exploring by ourselves. We made our way to Cat Cat village in the pouring rain and had our first encounters with the Hmong people. There were three women who followed us most of the way, all imploring that we buy something from them. Much to the dismay of the women walking with us we came away empty-handed.

Our second day of hiking we were joined by
an entourage of five Hmong girls, one of
whom was our guide.

The next day we took an organized tour. Our guide was a lovely 19 year old Hmong girl, Aye (I’m not sure how she spells it). We spent the day walking to her village. I spent most of the trek with her, asking questions and getting to know her. The rest of the tourists in Sapa also made the trek to Lao Chai (different from Lao Cai, where the train station is) village with their respective entourages. It was pretty funny to see hordes of people all walking the same direction. Despite this, the views were amazing and kind of made you forget that there were so many people around.

Our entourage had their baskets full of goods to sell us
once we made it to our destination.

The views were amazing. There will be more pictures to come in the next post, I promise! (Our next post will hopefully come a lot sooner too…. We’ve been having issues with the internet recently!)

You can see the beauty of the Hmong clothing
in this photo.

One of the things that I found most fascinating was the clothing of the Hmong people. The women wore clothing made from hemp that was dyed using the indigo plant. They then embroidered their outfits. They were truly beautiful. I ended up buying one to bring home. I hope to be able to share it with my class once I get a teaching job!

These kids were hanging out at one of
the shops, hoping that we’d buy bracelets or
something from them.

Hmong woman taking a break before trekking
down to Lao Chai.

The clouds cleared our second day and we had
beautiful views of the whole valley.

Goofing around. Eye had a beautiful soul.

You can see a few of the other tourists in this photo. We
sat for about 20 minutes here just enjoying the view.

Hmong women get married around 15 or 16 years old
which means they have their babies early.

One of the things that I found the most fun during my time in Sapa was buying things from the Hmong women. I walked up to the side of the road to look at some of the indigo-dyed blankets. As soon as I made a move in their direction, the owners of these blankets surrounded me, holding up their wares, hoping that I would “Buy from me!”I caused such a commotion that other tourists came over to take pictures.

Looking to buy a blanket, I was completely surrounded.

We ended up meeting up with some friends we made in Hanoi because they recognized me in the middle of all this commotion. At one point I think I was holding the ends of about six blankets, surrounded by women who were trying to show me their “best” blanket. I spent a good half hour looking at these blankets, and laughing with these women before I decided on one to take home.

After buying my traditional clothes, the women
wanted me to buy a skirt to match my new outfit.
I wanted to buy the baby!

I know that a lot of people who head up to Sapa dislike the constant harassment from the local population, but I found that a good attitude and a smile got me pretty far and made it all more bearable. In fact, it was down right enjoyable!

ps.  (from Jeff):  You’ll note that in all these photos, you’ll only ever see women trekking with the tourists and selling their wares.  Among the Hmong, it is the men who stay back and take care of the home.  We did not, even once, encounter a single exception to this rule.  It is the women who go out and work.

Dearest Patrick Hanley

This one’s for you, Pat.

I lost my conical hat when I had to wrestle our moto-remorque driver for the controls so that I could stop our vehicle.